Fighting the Big Cheese: The Artisanal Cheese Industry of Wisconsin

Abstract

Wisconsin maintains its title, held by the state for decades, as America's Dairyland; but its industry and producers have recently been challenged by larger scale production. Archival research and a literature review show that Wisconsin has responded to these challenges by leveraging its strong cheese culture and tradition, emerging as the leader in a smaller-scale artisan revival. Consumer surveys and producer interviews demonstrate that while "Big Cheese" continues to dominate the market, demand for artisan cheese in Wisconsin presents a viable alternative to increased scale and centralization, as well as a promising future for the state's industry.